travel

Adventures in the Albanian Alps: Rafting and Hiking

We went to Albania for our summer vacation this year. When you’re American and you get back from Albania be prepared for the following two questions: 1. Why? and 2. Oh! Are you Albanian? It’s beautiful, right now it’s budget-friendly, it’s off the beaten path and the food is delicious. I am not a travel blogger but I’m back from vacation and thought I would share a few photos, details and thoughts.

This is Tirana International Airport. It’s small and easy to navigate. When I first arrive somewhere different than what I’m used to, it takes me a good day to get used to it. Is this typical? I don’t know but I have to settle myself in. This part of the world felt wildly different when we first arrived and then at the end of the trip, when we returned the rental car, it felt like just another airport.

For the first half of our trip, we stayed in the Albanian Alps, about 3.5 hours away from the airport, in a lovely, small town named Permet. The older people there speak mostly Albanian and Italian. Italian because under their paranoid Communist dictator, that was the television they could get, or at least this is what we were told. The younger people speak fantastic English. We were the only Americans we met the entire trip which felt cool. I’ve never been to a place and been the only American around. It’s a big world out there and, as an American, I forget how isolated we are. It felt so good to be in crowds and around people who spoke many different languages.

Permet at dusk before the town came alive. People are out in the early mornings and late evenings walking and socializing. The town empties out in the heat of the day. I loved seeing groups of older women gossiping and walking together and then older men doing the same. There’s someone everywhere with a grill selling grilled corn all through the evening. We didn’t eat any processed food the entire time we were here – not on purpose – it’s just easy not to.

Like the rest of Europe, people eat later here. As I guess the uncouth Americans that we are, we tried to get dinner at 6:30 our first night here (I blame severe jet lag) and were told to come back in an hour. We were still the only people eating at that time. We did generate a lot of stares. I also did something I haven’t done on a trip to a foreign country before. I decided not to buy anything to make myself look more “european” or sophisticated and I wore things that I wear at home.

We took a rafting trip down the Vjosa River. We’re in the back of this boat. We had young Israelis at the front of the boat. We aren’t throwing gang symbols; that hand gesture represents Albania’s flag. This rafting trip was incredible. Being around people from different countries was also incredible. The other two boats with us had Germans and French on them.

The Vjosa River in Albania is in the Vjosa Wild River National Park and is the first of its kind in Europe and might end up being the only one of its kind. Or at least that’s how I think I understood it. We stayed with a wonderful family who run a B&B called Honey House and also host rafting, hiking and culinary adventures. They have their own honey! They have their own fruit jams, jellies and fruit! They make their own bread! They make their own Dhalle (a drink like Kefir)! Their son runs incredibly fun rafting trips! The dad runs hiking trips and gives tours of a mountain-side farm they run! And, they’re very very nice which should be no surprise. Oh and they have a very sweet dog and cat! They probably make and do a lot of other things too. I came away from here thinking I should have bees in my backyard too! and that thought has since faded.

Breakfasts at the Honey House – not seen is the Dhalle in a cold, clear glass, espresso, and their own herbal tea blend. Breakfast is served on a stone patio underneath grape vines with the sounds of the Vjosa River down below. Fresh honey and cherries in honey also pictured. Breakfast is my favorite meal of the day and this meal made me happy. I could eat this every day for probably ever without getting tired of it.
We took possibly the best hike we’ve ever been on through Lengarica Canyon. That’s me on the left and Syl is in the water. You swim through areas of this hike, climb over boulders and wade through water. I’m spoiled for any future hikes. It’s about 4 miles total but it takes much longer than a typical 4 mile hike would take. If you’ve ever hiked The Subway in Utah it’s similar in feel except more water, less big boulder clambering and it’s less strenuous overall.
It’s hot there and the water felt amazing. We walked, waded and swam through this gorge with smiles on our faces the entire time. Some of this was over my head and I felt like a TRUE ADVENTURER. Which is nice for someone who is a NOT AT ALL A TRUE ADVENTURER. If you do this, bring a dry bag for your things!
There are natural hot springs in the Vjosa River! Of course there are. It’s practically perfect. Here’s Dave and I living our best life in one of them.

In the mountains of Albania, there are shepherds with their flocks everywhere. It felt biblical and I’ve never seen anything like it. It’s interesting that this is still a job and I wonder how much longer that will be.

This was the first half of our trip. This part of Albania is magical. We live in a mountainous area and it I guess it points to how much we like our comfort zone in that we like to go other mountain areas for a lot of our vacations. I’m also a tremendous sucker for any destination labeled “off the beaten path.” I love nothing more than remote places. I could have stayed here for much longer.

Books I’ve Loved Recently:

The Calamity Club by Kathryn Stockett. Kept me awake and engaged on the 11 hour flight from Munich to Denver. 656 glorious pages of well-written historical fiction with characters that come alive from page 1.

Watching:

Watched two movies on flight over that I didn’t love. But it could have been the format of watching a small screen on the back of someone’s headrest. Started Motherland this week and loving it and yes I know it’s 10 years old. My excuse is it’s British.

Listening to:

Burn, Burn, Burn by Zach Bryan more than I should. Seeing him at Mile High in August!

“The only thing you’ve ever owned were high hopes and a pocket comb, you fool.” Zach Bryan She’s Alright.

4 thoughts on “Adventures in the Albanian Alps: Rafting and Hiking”

  1. LOVED reading about your adventure on my lunchbreak. Wonderful photos and descriptions. You need to travel and share more often…don’t we all?

    Thanks again for sharing!

    Tammy Hill, Hill Builders in Montana

      1. Even though local, we still love our trips to Red Lodge, East Rosebud Lake, Missoula, Cour de Alene.

        Our favorite beach getaway is Silver Sands Jamaica. It is a small, gated community with classic old beach homes as well as really nice new homes (that just don’t have the character). I found it back in the day when adventures were discovered in the back of magazines…We just stay on site and enjoy the postcard beach, silky sand, cook, housekeeper, and tiny beach bar.

        Silver Sands Jamaica, Vacation Rentals – Villas and Cottages by the Sea

  2. That part of Montana looks amazing. I’ve never been to that area and I need to add it to my list. That place in Jamaica looks awesome too – that would spoil me from any future travel though – your own cook??? Thanks for sharing, love it.

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